| Now I had a complete engine and a mk3 golf gearbox (02A) I set about removing the old engine and box. As the front
panel unbolts from the car its quite straightforward to
get at everything.
It took me a morning to take it all out, the only problems being worn splines on the driveshaft bolts and rusted exhaust manifold nuts. Since I wasn't going to be reusing then I just snapped them off. It was raining cats and dogs so I invested in a Tesco garden table cover and attatched it to the garage door and bonnet to keep the worst of the weather off.
While I had space to work in I changed the brake master cylinder for a 22mm item, ever since I fitted the larger 16v calipers the brake pedal has had a bit of travel before it bit so this should cure that problem. The 2 line pipework had to be changed to 4 line, M10x1 brake pipe adaptors were used to join the existing pipes.
| I removed the rod gear change ready for the cable one suitable for my gearbox. The cable unit fitted relatively
easily, just needing a section of the bracket removing before
it slotted into place.
Since the turbo engine will be producing a lot more heat than the 8v one I used some heatsheild matting to protect the steering gaitor, wiring and bulkhead.
I tidied up the engine bay wiring as a lot of the insulation had decomposed and fitted the mk3 flywheel and clutch to the engine. When I tried to fit the gearbox mount I discovered the mk2 mount does not fit the mk3 box so decided to fit the old gearbox to the engine for the time being, however it is unlikely the box will last very long... To save on the cost of an engine crane I made a frame to support the engine on a jack so I could wheel it straight in - it worked very well and with new uprated mounts fitted I slotted the engine into place.
| One major problem was the cambelt cover fouling on the new master cylinder. This was cured
by cutting and welding the front engine mount to drop the engine slightly. This gave me some clearance but I'd be happier if there
was a little more room.
Then it was simply refitting all the bits I'd taken off including the rod change gear linkage, speedo drive, heater matrix pipes (just use the 20v ones), accelerator and clutch cables (a 1.3 carb acc cable fits nicely). Some part than need a bit of work are the fuel lines - just run some new 8mm hose from the stock hard lines to the engine making sure you get the feed and return the right way round! I used a length of hose to join the 8v servo hose to a section of the 20v one - Use the correct type of hose, if it colapses under vacuum you'll have no brakes. Also t'eed into a manifold vac hose for the MFA vacuum, ran the coilpack wiring up to where the ECU was situated (may change its location), connected the wastegate pipe and cobbled together some coolant hoses. I used sections of scrapyard hoses and bought some hose joiners from think auto which did the job. Its still a little untidy but I'll scour the scrappers for some hoses that fit. I also refitted the PAS system, perhaps the biggest surprise was that the Mk2 PAS pump fits straight onto the Mk4 bracket and the Mk4 pulley fits it! Result.
I then fitted the driveshafts and filled up the oil in the engine and box. I have used the stock radiator against all advice (the hose fittings are on the wrong end) but it fits really well with a slimline fan. Although the new engine was the same capacity as the old one the extra 12 valves made space a premium. Even with the slimline fan room is very tight and this was before I got the intercooler on which made it even worse!
| The next day was spent sorting out the intercooler (IC) which needed a fair amount of metal removing from the
front panel - I was using a Ford Focus S-Max Diesel unit
which I had managed to get brand new for a fiver! I imagine you wouldn't have to trim the metalwork if you use a Mercedes Sprinter
one. When I was happy with its location
I made some simple brackets to mount it.
Then it was a case of plumbing the IC to the throttle body and turbo. I uses some of the 20v hoses and pipes (cut and welded) and some more scrapyard stuff (Vauxhall Vivaro I think) aswell as some exhaust tubing of the correct diameter, I will probably tidy this up in the near future with some Samco type hoses and nice polished aluminium pipes. I also made an exhaust downpipe, its in mild steel and only took a couple of hours to knock up. This is mated to the stock gti exhaust to make it a real sleeper. Don't forget to use a flexible joint in the exhaust - it will probably snap if you leave it out.
The biggest problem area with the exhaust it just after it exits the turbo - it needs to take a sharp turn to avoid the steering knuckle.
| There were still a few small jobs to do - soldering the fan wires, fitting the engine bay earth wires, welding
some 'nipples' on the intake pipes to stop them popping off
under boost, moving the horn below the intercooler and fitting the sender for the water temperature gauge. The sender of the 8v
engine fitted straight into the 20v pipework
so I don't have to worry about the temperature gauge going off the scale. I reused the coolant sender from my 8v engine (which had
been modified for MS) which also
fitted straight into the 20v water pipe. The dipstick mounting bracket was cut down to give the coolant hoses a bit more space.
Finally got the fuses fitted in the car and wired up to MS, the O2 sensor, coil etc. Be prepared to pull the dashboard to bits to get at all the wiring!
Made an air filter bracket to support the new green cotton filter. I will look at either fitting this where the washer bottle sits or using some sort of cold air feed in the future.
Installed a vacuum hose from the MFA to MS, the oil t piece finally arrived (M10x1from demon tweeks) and I fitted this along with the 2 oil senders (high and low pressure) into where the standard oil sensor fits.
| I fitted my Ford coilpack and modified coil bracket to the inner wing (decided this was a better location than
the ECU mount)
and wired it in.
The Mk4 alternator was wired up - use the blue wire from the 4 pin plug and connect to the blue wire near the battery, connect the thick red wire straight to the positive terminal of the battery. And fitted a throttle stop screw as I wasn't using the idle control - this would allow me to get a decent idle speed.